Before you buy a horsebox

Making an informed choice

It’s alarming how many horsebox buyers I encounter with unsettling tales, ranging from poor customer service to hazardous manufacturing practices.

As someone with extensive experience in this industry, I empathise with new customers who may lack the technical knowledge necessary for such a significant purchase.

Unfortunately, much of the information available is either misleading or overly sales-driven, often exploiting buyers’ concerns about ensuring the safety of their valuable horses.

While the decision to purchase a horsebox might seem straightforward, finding one that meets your specific needs – being lightweight, durable, and legally compliant for transporting horses—proves to be a complex challenge.

The horsebox market is indeed a minefield, with vast discrepancies in design, quality, and safety features.

To assist prospective buyers, I want to highlight some critical considerations that may not be immediately apparent but are essential for making an informed choice.

Horsebox size

There are several factors here to consider and probably the first one is your driving licence. This will determine what class of vehicle you can drive legally.

Cost to purchase and run will be major considerations too, as will the number of horses, sleeping, cooking and toilet facilities.

If you happen to be looking at a KPH horsebox, this article will help you pick the right horsebox depending on your driving licence.

Horsebox sizes and licence requirements:

• 3.5 tonnes (with category B licence)
• 4.5 tonnes (with category C or C1 licence)
• 5 to 7.2 tonne (with category C or C1 licence)
• 7.5 tonnes (with category C or C1 licence)
• 10 to 26 tonnes (with category C licence)

Buying your horsebox

When purchasing a horsebox, it’s easy to be swayed by superficial aspects like shiny paintwork, which often catches the eye first and can influence buying decisions.

However, it’s crucial to prioritise the bones of the horsebox over its aesthetics. It’s also important to consider who actually builds the horsebox, as many for sale are not manufactured by the selling company but rather sourced from elsewhere with just a logo added for branding. This raises questions about the seller’s commitment to quality and product development.

Since there is no legal obligation for sellers to disclose this information, it’s wise to ask to see their horseboxes in production. If they are unwilling to show you the factory floor and offer excuses instead, it may be best to walk away from the deal.

 

Horsebox payload

Payload is the weight of horses, people, tack, water and fuel you can legally carry.

To calculate the payload, you need to know the Maximum Authorised Mass (MAM), often referred to as the Gross Weight, or GWT of the horsebox and subtract the un-laden weight (how much it weighs empty) from the MAM. This calculation gives the payload.

As a very quick example, if the MAM is 4.5 tonnes and the un-laden weight of the horsebox is 2.7 tonnes. The calculation for permissible payload is 4.5 tonne (MAM) subtract 2.7 tonnes (un-laden weight) and this gives 1.8 tonnes (payload).

You will need to know that the weight of everything you load on the horsebox, from fuel and water to your horses is less than the payload figure. If you make a buying mistake here, it is going to cost you dearly!

It is encouraging to see that public awareness about the risks associated with overweight horseboxes has grown… and this is something I like to think I’ve helped influence. As a result, it has become much harder to sell both new and used horseboxes that are overweight. Having said that, many newcomers to horse ownership still lack an understanding of how this excess weight can impact crucial factors such as:

• Cornering stability
• Suspension effectiveness
• Braking performance
• Insurance coverage
• Legal compliance

The issue of overweight horseboxes extends beyond the welfare of the transported horses; it presents a significant safety hazard to passengers and other road users alike. To mitigate these risks, it’s essential to approach any horsebox purchase with a clear understanding of your payload requirements. As a precautionary measure, always factor in some extra capacity to ensure compliance with weight regulations.

To assist our customers in navigating this complex topic, I have published a comprehensive article on horsebox payloads. I firmly believe that by increasing awareness and understanding of this crucial issue, we can work towards eliminating the prevalence of overweight horseboxes on our roads.

I encourage you to read and share this informative resource: Horsebox Payloads.

By spreading this knowledge, we can collectively contribute to safer transport practices for horses, handlers, and all road users.

 

Horsebox weighbridge certificate

This goes hand in hand with payload and the sensible route is to avoid horseboxes without a current weighbridge certificate at all costs.

You should also be aware that even if they have a weighbridge certificate, some people will have removed partitions and horse doors etc to obtain a spurious certificate with higher payload… and yes it does happen, I have seen it!

To be completely transparent for customers, I weigh vehicles onsite and everything I manufacture has a weighbridge certificate and to be totally transparent, I can do this with the customer present.  If only they would make this an industry-wide standard!

My best advice here is, if you are buying a horsebox and have any reason to doubt the payload, take it to a public weighbridge and get an up-to-date certificate.

Look underneath

You should have a good look underneath for finish and attention to detail.

How it is protected from water and salt is key the durability of the horsebox. The finish here should be just as good as the outside paintwork. Don’t believe the hype that aluminium does not rot. If left unpainted and exposed to the weather, oxidation (rust) will begin from day one!

Regardless of whether it’s aluminium, galvanised steel or stainless steel, my rule of thumb is that if it’s underneath, paint it and then spray it with Waxoyl.

Basically, build quality here will determine the longevity of the horsebox and ultimately its resale value.

I would also check the horse floor and supporting subframe. Steel and aluminium both corrode, so look for broken welds or cracks around joints. If it has an aluminium plank floor and aluminium subframe I advise a close check around welds, bolts, screws, or rivets for fracturing as this is a common fault.

Don’t forget to check for oil and water leaks on all the running gear and engine etc.

Tyres

Inspection of the vehicle’s tyres is crucial for safety and to save on expensive replacement bills.

It’s essential to check not only the tread depth but also the overall condition of the tyres. While examining the outer surfaces is important, don’t neglect the inner tyre walls. Take the time to look underneath the vehicle for any signs of cracks, blebs, or blisters, as these can indicate weaknesses or damage that may compromise your safety on the road and they will need replacing.

In July 2020, the Department for Transport (DFT) introduced new legislation regarding tyre age, which came into effect on 1 February 2021.

This regulation prohibits the use of tyres over 10 years old on specific vehicle types and positions. The ban applies to any axle of minibuses with single wheels fitted, as well as the front axle of lorries, buses, and coaches. This measure aims to enhance road safety

Clutch, brakes and gearbox

I highly recommend a test drive paying special attention to the gearbox, clutch, and brakes along with the general ride quality.

Look for oil and water leaks and if it has air brakes, it’s a good idea to drain the system down by pumping the foot brake when the engine is off until the low air alarm sounds, then start the engine and let it fill up again until the buzzer goes quiet.

At this stage it’s probably worth testing all the gauges, fans and lights etc.

The service history can be of benefit if it has one. However, many used horsebox chassis have been maintained fleet vehicles, so service history is notoriously hard to come by.

Water system

If the horsebox has onboard water, it is worth testing that it works and pay special attention to water heater and water pump for leaks.  Typically, we see many horseboxes each year with frost damaged components.

If you do buy a used horsebox with a water system, it is a very good idea to flush it through at least a couple of times with a dedicated cleaner.

Horse area

Horse safety should be part of any inspection and must be high on your list. Horse partition and horse gate strength are important as are edges on cappings and any metalwork.

 

Ventilation

You should consider the number of windows, roof vents, or extraction fans and if they going to be sufficient for the horses you will transport.

 

Ramp and springs

Ramp condition, including the angle, grip, and fastening mechanism should be checked and take special care looking at the hinges and spring or ram mounting points. This is where most used horseboxes have problems, and they are expensive to fix!

You should test the weight of the ramp and see if you can close it. Often used horseboxes will need new ramp springs or gas struts to make them easy to close.

Website

Be aware that there is little to no actual policing of websites, so you cannot take statements at face value.

In this age of AI and digital media, it is so easy to copy website content including lists and images… and it is possible to build a professional looking website in just a few hours. With clever wording they can look like they have been running for many decades.

As an example, on one occasion our old KPH website was copied in its entirety and only our manufacturer’s name had been changed. They had even kept the images of our staff and dogs!

For a customer this would be very hard to spot, so my best advice here is ask questions on the forums and do plenty of in-depth research using as many different sources as possible.

I would add, it is common to see websites sell by playing on customers genuine fears for their horse safety. The website may state a fact and provide no corroborating evidence.

A good way to check websites and horsebox companies for factual references is to ask on the horse forums. There are almost always other people who have some in depth knowledge of the facts.

 

Horsebox living area

Living areas can vary greatly from horsebox to horsebox, but the main items to check after the water system are the 12/24 volt and 230 volt electrical systems.

If it has onboard gas and gas appliances, these should be tested. A current Gas Safe certificate should be included, and this should be renewed yearly. As a side note, for your own peace of mind a carbon monoxide and smoke detector should be fitted.

 

Tilt cab

If the original chassis had a tilt cab, make sure the manufacturer has kept this facility and that it is in working order. I have seen customers have to pay for the engine to be removed just to service a horsebox!

If it has a tilt cab and a walk through or crawl through, check that there are no signs of leaking.

 

Images of the manufacturing process

If you are having a horsebox built, ask for photos at different stages of the build process. Asking for photos a few times throughout the build lets you see how your horsebox is progressing and how they are treating your goods in trust.

 

Visit the manufacturer and ask for a tour

A visit and chat with the company will identify whether they meet with your criteria. It will give you a snapshot of different horseboxes in build at differing stages of completion. It will confirm whether the company builds on-site themselves, and that they are happy to show their workmanship.

I firmly believe the cleanliness of a workshop tells customers a great deal about a manufacturer.

 

Horsebox spraying

If you are having one built, you should ask is it sprayed onsite by them… or will it be fully finished then taken off site and sprayed for a price by another company!

This is a pertinent question, especially if you intend to keep the horsebox more than the initial warranty period.

No one in their right mind would buy a car fully built up in bare steel and then driven somewhere else to be painted. Unfortunately, this approach is common place!

 

Bespoke build

If you are going the bespoke build route and having something made, my sage advice is,  do not deviate too far from what everyone else would require.

As an example, if you stalled a 7.5 tonne build for one horse and had a double sized living, when you sell the horsebox, your market will shrink from everyone looking for a three stall 7.5 tonne build to just a handful of people.

 

Don’t purchase a horsebox if you’re making compromises

A trend I’ve observed in recent years is a ripple effect affecting the availability of both new and used horseboxes, prompting customers to make compromises to secure a horsebox quickly.

Statistically, compromising on requirements makes a horsebox difficult to live with, often resulting in premature replacement.

I believe it’s wise to create a list of your requirements and avoid accepting compromises, as they can be incredibly challenging to manage in the long run.

Rushing into a purchase due to immediate need rarely proves successful. Living with any compromise can be quite troublesome.

From an undesirable colour to a poorly placed tack locker, it almost guarantees you’ll replace the horsebox sooner rather than later.

A horsebox must suit the customer perfectly; if it doesn’t, you’ll never be truly satisfied with your ownership experience.

 

Private sales

It is worth considering the pros and cons of buying from a dealer or buying privately.

Buying privately may be the cheapest option, but it is almost always sold as seen, whereas buying from a dealer often has some warranty and will come under the Sales of Goods Act 1979.

 

Conclusion

If there is any conclusion to this article, it would have to be that you cannot be too careful.

You should be very cautious and challenge every single aspect, research carefully and ask for proof of statements.

Ask questions on the forums and read the Google reviews.

After wading through websites, advertising literature, Google reviews and pictures of shiny new horseboxes, you hopefully will have almost become an expert!

All Horsebox Advice Topics

1. 1. Horsebox Payloads
   2. Horsebox Ventilation
   3. Horsebox Aluminium
   4. Horsebox Passenger Seatbelts
   5. Horsebox Safety Checks
   6. Before You Buy A Horsebox
   7. Horsebox Air Brakes